Every spring, thousands of people flock to Switzerland from around the world. Like a Mecca, this tiny country lures men and women alike – all of whom have some interest in watches.
The two leading international rendezvous for watchmaking professionals, the BaselWorld and SIHH exhibitions, are where the world’s leaders in timepieces unveil their newest wares, often months, sometimes even years, in the research and development stages. Once launched, they typically enter the respective international markets for retail sale sometime in early fall. These are the watches that will set the trends for wrists around the world for the coming year and longer.
Responding to an ever more knowledgeable and discerning clientele, Swiss watchmakers are offering grand diversity and innovation in both design and technology. This year the legendary Patek Philippe showcased a concept timepiece whose escapement was created of high-tech silicon as opposed to traditional metal. Other brands revealed watches made of aeronautic and other industry materials such as tantalum and palladium. Indeed, in a centuries-old profession, developing fresh ideas and technologies isn’t always easy – but the world’s best manage just fine.
According to the president of Patek Philippe’s North American operations, “The watch industry needs to adapt to what the market wants. We need to be innovative and creative. This is the driving force behind growing the mechanical watch business.”
In a world of quartz timing and immediacy, watches with mechanical hearts steal the limelight this year for both men and women. A basic mechanical watch with three hands (hour, minute, seconds) has perhaps a hundred or so parts within its hull. However, add a few complexities to that watch – multiple time zones, calendars, alarms – and the movement within can hold an average of 300 parts. One watch – the Tour de L’ile created by Vacheron Constantin for its 250th anniversary – has an amazing 834 parts. This estimated $1,500,000 watch offers 16 complicated functions.
Tourbillons, Chronos and Others
By far the most prevalent mechanical watch trend this year is the tourbillon. According to the president of Blancpain, “Once reserved for the upper tiers of watchmaking, tourbillons this year have become almost trendy. With so many watch manufacturers buying tourbillon movements and designing a watch around them, we are entering new price points for these watches, too.”
Rado’s Luxury Material: Ceramic
Rado occupies a place apart in the world of luxury timekeeping. Indeed, this brand is a pioneer in the use of a very specific material for watches: high-tech ceramic. Besides its application in high-tech medical science, ceramic is especially well known for its uses in space technology. In addition to its enormous resistance to heat, scratching and abrasion, high-tech ceramic is also extremely skin-friendly.
And, once it is worked, beginning with a base of powdered minerals, ceramic takes on the value of gold. With the artistic use of ceramic, Rado offers a new definition of luxury. It is a contemporary luxury, crafted in unusual forms, which opens new design perspectives for watches. Among its features are the absolute integration of the case and watch bracelet, flexibility, comfort, ergonomic styling and an unalterable sparkle. Not only does ceramic never age, but, worked in subtle colors, enhanced with gold, diamonds, and precious metals, it permits the boldest fusions and the most contemporary harmonies possible in the world of watch design. Since its creation in 1962, Rado has imposed a style that is unique in its genre. Confirmation of this fact is that it has become the fourth largest watch brand in Switzerland.
The exceptional alliance of high-tech materials, powerful design, beautiful styling, and subtleness of formhave made Rado a must-have timepiece for men and women alike.
Watch manufacturers unveiling tourbillons this year range from the tried-and-trues (Audemars Piguet, Blancpain, Breguet, Franck Muller, Piaget, etc.) to the somewhat unconventional brands such as Chanel and Jacob & Co. Some brands such as Roger Dubuis and Delacour even incorporated a second tourbillon escapement into their timepieces. Blancpain spent two and a half years creating its $180,000 Tourbillon Transparence watch, which more fully reveals the movement and mainplate through sapphire disks and dials. More general mechanical watch trends for the public at large include multiple time-zone indicators (GMTs, world timers, dual, triple and even five-time-zone readouts), perpetual calendars and moonphase indicators that prove valuable to world travelers.
Chronographs remain popular in all price points and with mechanical or quartz movements. Additionally, sports watches that dive deeper, fly higher and time ever tinier fractions of a second make an important statement in time. TAG Heuer, in fact, released its Caliber 360 Concept Chronograph that was more than a year in the development stages. It is the first mechanical wristwatch to be able to time to 1/100th of a second, thanks to an exceptionally high frequency balance wheel that vibrates 10 times faster than any other mechanical chronograph in the world. Other important trends in watches include a return to vintage retro styling – with tonneau shaped cases, bold rectangles and oversized squares. Indeed, designs that have made their mark in earlier days are being reintroduced with a modern spirit to conquer today’s wrists.
On the more sophisticated side for men, diamonds are making an appearance – in discreet styles on the dial or bezel. Bigger, cleaner, easier-to-read dials are important, as well, often with big-date indicators. There is also a great resurgence in cases made of 18-karat rose gold. In terms of materials, titanium and rubber have become almost commonplace in sport watch collections, and are often paired with carbon fiber dials. This year, too, a host of watch manufacturers, with Rado Watches at the forefront, have conquered the high-tech ceramic arena and are offering scratch-resistant ceramic cases and watch bracelets. Boldly colored watchstraps and dials are also important. Dyed alligator, crocodile and rubber move over somewhat to make room for newer dyed exotic skins such as stingray, python, sea snake and lizard. Colorful painted dials are complemented by lustrous mother-of-pearl dials in a host of pastel or dark hues. Women’s watches enjoy renewed femininity in design this year, with unusual case shapes, heart and charm influences, and alluring chain, mesh and open link watch bracelets. Diamonds, gemstones and even pearls adorn steel watches, as well as precious metal timepieces for rich, inviting styles that vie for attention.
This years trends have produced some fantastic timepieces – which one is right for you?
